After crossing mountains and deserts, we now find ourselves along the ocean, exploring the southern part of South Africa. A minor mishap with one of the bikes in the group means I’m lending mine to a client and will continue the journey as a passenger, riding on the back of my partner’s BMW 1250 GSA.
We’re now on day 14 of this 18-day journey, with mostly coastal towns awaiting us in the coming days. With sunny weather still on our side, we head toward the Indian Ocean. Taking Route 2, we arrive in the major port city of East London. Stopping here for lunch, I realize that since the start of this motorcycle trip, South African cuisine has exceeded my expectations in both quality and variety. However, service at different restaurants is noticeably slow. Perhaps it’s us who are too rushed! We eat right by the Indian Ocean, with a stunning view of the beach, waves, sea, and endless horizon.
Among the local products I’ve discovered, my favourite is definitely biltong. This South African specialty was initially introduced by Dutch settlers. Originally, this dried meat seasoned generously with vinegar, coriander, pepper, and chili was mainly practical. Today, biltong is one of the country’s most popular snacks and is sometimes added to pizza, sandwiches, and more.
With full stomachs, we leave the coast and pass through some bush fires along the way—it’s an exceptionally hot day! Heading toward Port Alfred, a charming coastal town with rich colonial architecture and a marina, we’re once again by the ocean. Arriving early at the hotel allowed us to take a stroll on the beach and feel the wind in our hair! Ha! Ha! Ha!
After a quick Castle (a local lager) at a beach bar for happy hour, we head to the Irish pub next to the hotel for dinner.
The next day, we hop on our bikes and pass through Alexandria and Port Elizabeth. The views are breathtaking, and the weather is perfect. We stop for lunch in the charming town of Jeffreys Bay. Everywhere we go, we notice frequent power outages. There simply isn’t enough electricity for everyone, so daily (once, twice, or even three times), South Africans face this reality. By installing large generators, restaurant owners can keep serving meals to their many customers, although some dishes might be unavailable during load-shedding.
When we want to park our bikes, it’s not uncommon to see a South African pop up and offer their “motorbike-watching” service. Essentially, they unofficially manage the parking area. When we leave, we give them a few rands to thank them for watching over our bikes, and everyone’s happy!
Then, we continue along the famous Garden Route, a stunning 300-kilometre stretch running from the small town of Mossel Bay to the mouth of the Storms River. The route gets its name from the lush and ecologically rich vegetation found along it. It passes through places of exceptional natural beauty throughout. George, Knysna, and Plettenberg Bay are just a few of the charming towns we encounter along the way. We also see many agricultural lands and sheep farms. Between verdant hills and ancient forests, our bikes are guided westward.
The road, sometimes narrow, delights everyone. Oops! Cows slowly cross the road—we wait patiently, and then we’re off again! More baboons casually observing our motorcycle convoy, this time a mother with her little one!
Upon arriving in Plettenberg Bay, an exceptional hotel awaits us. We’ll have a well-deserved rest day here! On the first evening, we enjoy a gourmet meal at the hotel. On our free day, some of us will go to Monkeyland to see the monkeys, and others will head to Knysna for mussels. As for us, we opted to explore the historic town on foot, followed by a beach walk and finally relaxing by the hotel pool! On the second evening, we all decide to have dinner at a beachside restaurant-bar, and we laughed a lot!
Our next destination is Swellendam, where we’ll spend a final night before returning the bikes. But the adventure is not over yet—a big day awaits.
The cherry on top: Cape Agulhas! I had been looking forward to this moment for so long! This is the southernmost tip of Africa, where the Indian and Atlantic oceans meet. Our bikes handle a bit of gravel with large stones, and then an exceptional landscape unfolds before us. It’s deeply moving to be here. The scenery is breathtaking, and we take in every moment of this experience. Being here together on motorcycles is simply magical!
We then head toward Cape Town, passing through the beautiful town of Hermanus, where we stop for lunch. The numerous vineyards and the stunning Kogelberg Nature Reserve captivate us, and we end this amazing adventure along the spectacular Route 44, skirting the ocean. A section of the road actually collapsed shortly before our arrival, and one wonders how long it will take to repair with cliffs on one side and a drop-off on the other.
Returning to Cape Town, reality sets in one last time before departure. Dozens of kilometers of townships and poverty stand as a stark reminder of the region’s social inequality.
Now it’s time to return the motorcycles. After the usual checks, we have a few hours to explore the lively Victoria & Alfred Waterfront area. I would have loved more time to enjoy this spot, but alas… Then it’s off to the airport for a long journey back home.
South Africa can certainly be a bit of a culture shock at times. For me, it’s the pace of life and the human spirit of black Africa that left the biggest impression. Though poor, the people are incredibly kind and always smiling! Surprisingly, we saw few motorcycles and even fewer bicycles—people walk a lot, often covering long distances. Riding on the left in South Africa was easier than I expected, and English is widely spoken!
I could compare the landscapes to those of the United States (deserts, mountains, ocean, vegetation), but with a very different flora and fauna from what we have in North America. South Africa’s roads and ecosystems are extremely diverse. They don’t call it the Rainbow Nation for nothing!
Here ends an extraordinary and unique motorcycle trip that will forever remain etched in our hearts. We experienced countless emotions during these 18 days in South Africa and Lesotho. We’re returning home with a wealth of unforgettable memories…
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