Six days have passed and we are now pretty much at ease driving on the “wrong” side of the road. Since our departure from Cape Town, we’ve encountered some exotic animals on the road, discovered extraordinary caves, and driven on roads somewhat reminiscent of those in the American West. We are now heading towards Lesotho, in the mountains. As the only country in the world with its entire territory above 1,400 metres, Lesotho rightfully earns its nickname of Kingdom in the Sky. There, you find small traditional Basotho houses (circular huts made of stone or adobe with pointed thatched roofs) set in postcard-perfect landscapes, and high pastures roamed by proud African shepherds. Seemingly unknown to the rest of the world, this small country is entirely surrounded by South Africa, its modern big sister. Lesotho was a genuine discovery.
To enter this small independent kingdom, the customs protocol must be strictly observed. We take out our passports, ensuring that the officers stamp them correctly. If, by any misfortune, this isn’t done, returning to our home country could be quite complicated.
But now it’s done, and we enter this country where life expectancy is about 50 years…
From day one, the landscapes have changed daily, and we are now riding on the winding roads at the foot of the Lesotho mountains. We see numerous shepherds dressed in their traditional attire. This is one of my favourite memories: the Basotho shepherds with their hats (mokorotlo) or hoods sometimes revealing only their eyes. Wrapped in their large colourful blankets (kobo), they peacefully accompany their herds through the fields.
We certainly don’t go unnoticed here: 10 touring motorcycles, riders with white skin, blonde, white, or red hair, speaking French… We are undoubtedly the main attraction wherever we go. The locals welcome us as if we were part of a Christmas parade (naturally, I felt like I was the Star Fairy and waved at them enthusiastically!) The people are very kind and smiling, greeting us as we pass! Alongside the road in the villages, we find countless small shops built with tin sheets: fruit vendors, SIM card sellers, and barbecue grilled meat stands! There’s even an itinerant vendor carrying a stack of around thirty hard-boiled eggs, selling them to motorists stopped at traffic lights! This motorcycle journey is, indeed, destabilizing and incredibly rich!
Another truly heartwarming experience was the sight of young schoolchildren walking (a long way) to get to school. Proudly wearing their charming uniforms, they seem surprised but happy to see our joyful band of motorcyclists! Fine emotions. We then pass through the bustling capital, Maseru, where we stop for the night.
The next day, on our way back to South Africa, we stop at a preschool and primary school in Lesotho. What an incredible day! The young students, who are learning English, were eagerly awaiting us. They had prepared a song in English and a prayer in French for us, even though their native language is Sotho. These encounters were touching and emotional. Riding a motorcycle here is a deeply moving experience…
The Highlands
After these emotionally charged moments, we cross the border without any issues. Back in South Africa, we stop for lunch at a microbrewery in Clarens, right next to a park. The weather is beautiful, and the atmosphere is very pleasant.
Back on our bikes, we soon reach yet another favourite! The road through the Golden Gate Highlands National Park offers breathtaking landscapes winding through golden mountains. The lush green valleys provide spectacular views of unusual rock formations. This national park is also known for its numerous animal species, including bison, elands, and cheetahs. The scenery once again reminded me of the American West! And the narrow and winding road is certainly a fine motorcycle riding road!
We continue our journey riding along the mountains bordering Lesotho in the Ukhahlamba Drakensberg Park. At the hotel, several young deer roam around, grazing their dinner before heading to sleep. Nice!
From a bike to a Jeep
We then leave the Maloti-Drakensberg Park to delve into the KwaZulu-Natal region. Amidst verdant hills, tropical forests, and abundant wildlife, we head towards the Thula Thula Game Reserve for a unique experience. We will take a break here for two nights, swapping our motorcycles for a one-day jeep safari!
The Thula Thula Game Reserve is a wildlife sanctuary committed to the conservation of fauna and flora. Apart from its protection and rehabilitation programs for wild animals, the Reserve is also renowned for its breathtaking landscapes, savannahs, lakes, and rivers. It is home to elephants, rhinos, zebras, buffaloes, giraffes, hippos, and many other animal species. Since animals are active in the evening and early morning, we will enjoy three “safari games” here, allowing us to see most of the wildlife. Everyone was delighted by the unique atmosphere of the place. The close proximity to the animals in their natural habitat was very moving. Watching elephants interact and communicate with each other, so large yet discreet, and then seeing a warthog trotting across the path put the song “Hakuna Matata” in my head for the rest of the day! And the gastronomy! Oh, we feasted!
The roads at the foot of the Maloti-Drakensberg Park and Sani Pass offer stunning landscapes of mountains, valleys, rivers, and tropical forests.
Between Land and Sea
Leaving the mountains, a police officer signalled us to pull over: these roadside checks are always a bit stressful. He asked for our international driving permits, and fortunately, everyone had theirs. I then tried to lighten the mood by engaging in a conversation with him; he seemed to appreciate us. In our group, Normand was riding a big Harley, which the officer had rarely seen. I asked if he wanted to sit on it, and without hesitation, he climbed on and proudly posed for photos. Of course, you must always ask permission before taking photos of a police officer; forgetting this protocol could cost you dearly.
We then arrived at Port St. Johns (after a final memorable pass with perfect pavement), a small fishing port located on the east coast of South Africa. It’s a unique mix of white sand beaches, tropical forests, and rock formations. We stopped for lunch by the Umzimvubu River, a tributary of the Indian Ocean.
In the next issue, the third and final part of this wonderful motorcycle road trip!
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